This is the inspection a competent buyer should run before they sign. It's not a substitute for a certified RV inspector (recommended for any RV over $50K) — but it's the minimum you should run yourself. If a dealer won't let you do this, that's your answer.
Bring with you
Phone (camera + flashlight), notepad, this printed checklist, a multimeter if you own one, a small mirror (for checking under things), and someone you trust. Allocate 2–3 hours. Schedule it — don't try to do it on a busy showroom day.
1. Exterior & Structure
Time: 25 minutes · 14 items
- Roof inspection. Get up there (or have the dealer get up there) and photograph every penetration. Look for sealant cracks, lifting, soft spots underfoot. Roof leaks are the #1 RV killer.
- All seams and sealants. Windows, slides, every joint. Press around them with your finger — anywhere that feels soft is rot.
- Tire date codes (DOT codes). Look at the sidewall — last 4 digits are week + year of manufacture. Tires more than 5 years old need replacing regardless of tread.
- Tire tread & pressure. Tread depth, uneven wear (alignment issue), pressure matches the sidewall rating.
- Hitch / kingpin (towables). No cracks, no excessive wear, tongue jack works smoothly.
- Stabilizers / leveling jacks. Extend each one fully. Listen for hydraulic whine. Look for fluid leaks underneath.
- Slide-out seals. Run a finger around every seal. Soft, flexible, no tears, no daylight visible.
- Underbelly. Get on your back and look. Tape, rips, dangling wires, exposed plumbing all = problems.
- Awning. Extend it. Retract it. Look at the fabric, the arms, the motor.
- Exterior storage doors. Every one opens, latches, doesn't catch.
- Steps / entry. Steps extend, retract, no wobble at the top step (very common issue).
- Generator (if equipped). Start it from cold. Let it run 10 minutes under load. Listen for surging or rough idle.
- City water connection. Hook up a hose. Check for leaks at the inlet and the water filter housing.
- Sewer connection. Open and close the valves. The handle should move smoothly. Sniff — old sewer-valve odors mean dried seals.
2. Interior — Living Spaces
Time: 25 minutes · 13 items
- Floor walk. Walk every square foot. Listen for squeaks. Feel for soft spots (water damage indicator) — especially around the entry, under windows, around the toilet.
- Slide-outs extend / retract. Run each slide all the way out and all the way back in. Listen for grinding, look for binding.
- Slide-out alignment. When fully extended, the slide should be flush with the wall. Any noticeable tilt = adjustment needed.
- All cabinet doors and drawers. Open every one. Drawers slide smoothly. Doors close flush. Hardware tight.
- All windows. Each one opens, closes, latches, and the screen functions. Look for fogging between panes (failed seals).
- Blinds and shades. Operate every one. Day/night shades especially — broken cords are common.
- Interior lights. Test every fixture. Note any out, dim, or flickering.
- USB and 12V outlets. Test with a phone or charger. Several should be at the dinette, beds, and over counters.
- 110V outlets. Test each one with a plug-in outlet tester (the $5 kind with three lights). Reverse polarity is shockingly common.
- TV / entertainment. Power on, check inputs, antenna boost, satellite jack (if applicable).
- Ceiling vents. Operate each one. The fans should run, the rain sensor should function.
- Smoke / CO / LP detector. Press the test button on each. They must work.
- Fire extinguisher. Present, in-date, mounted properly.
3. Plumbing System
Time: 20 minutes · 11 items
- Connect to city water. Run water through every fixture for 60 seconds: galley sink, bathroom sink, shower, toilet.
- Hot water. Turn on the water heater (electric and gas modes if equipped). Wait 20 minutes. Hot water should reach every fixture.
- Toilet flush. Multiple flushes. Watch the seal — it should hold water in the bowl between flushes.
- Shower flow and drain. Run for 2 minutes, then check the gray tank fill rate is reasonable.
- Galley sink drain. Should flow without bubbling back up.
- Water pump. Disconnect city water, switch to the freshwater tank, run the pump. Should cycle on/off cleanly, not constantly.
- Black tank monitor. Read all four tank levels on the panel.
- Outdoor shower (if equipped). Hot and cold both work.
- Low-point drains. Locate them. Verify they close fully.
- Water filter. Confirm there is one, confirm the housing isn't leaking.
- No leaks anywhere. Use your phone flashlight to check under every sink, behind the toilet, around the water heater.
4. Electrical System
Time: 20 minutes · 10 items
- Shore power connection. The cord, the inlet, the breaker panel. No scorch marks, no warm spots after 30 minutes of use.
- Battery voltage. 12.6V or higher at rest (lead-acid). 13.0V+ for lithium. Read it on the panel or with your multimeter.
- Converter / charger. When on shore power, batteries should be charging. Look for the charging indicator.
- Inverter (if equipped). Switch on. Confirm 110V is available at the inverter outlets.
- Solar (if equipped). Verify the controller is wired and reads input on a sunny day. Note the panel age — older solar is often dirty.
- Generator transfer. Run the generator, confirm it powers the 110V circuits, then transfer back to shore.
- All breakers labeled. Every breaker in the panel should have a clear label. Trip-test the main and one or two branch breakers if the dealer will allow it.
- GFCI outlets. Test the GFCI button on every outlet that has one (galley, bathroom, exterior).
- Battery disconnect switch. Operate it. Hear the click. Lights should die.
- Surge protector / EMS. Most RVs don't ship with one. Plan to buy one ($300) before you take delivery.
5. Propane & HVAC
Time: 15 minutes · 8 items
- Propane tank(s). Quantity, level, hookup tight, regulator visible. Note the manufacturer date stamp — tanks expire every 10–12 years.
- Propane shutoff valves. Operate them. Both directions.
- Stove burners. Light each one. Watch the flame color — blue = good, yellow = check.
- Oven (if equipped). Light it, watch it reach temperature.
- Refrigerator. Run on shore power and on propane. Confirm both work. Door seals tight.
- Air conditioner. Run for 20 minutes minimum. Check temperature differential at the vents (should be 18–22°F colder than ambient).
- Furnace. Cycle it on. Listen for ignition. Confirm hot air at the floor vents.
- Thermostat. All modes (auto, cool, heat, fan, off) operate correctly.
6. Documentation & Paperwork
Time: 15 minutes · 8 items
- VIN matches title, registration, and sticker. All three.
- Owner's manuals. RV itself plus every component (fridge, AC, water heater, slides, awning). Often missing — request them.
- NHTSA recall check. Print the current recall status for this VIN.
- Build date sticker. Photograph it.
- Warranty documents. Manufacturer + every component. In your hand.
- PDI checklist. Signed by service, with technician name and date.
- Itemized price sheet. Every fee, charge, and option in writing before you go to F&I.
- Service department contact. Direct phone, named service writer, GM name and contact.
If a dealer pushes back on any of this
You've learned something. A dealer that doesn't want you running this inspection is a dealer that knows what you'd find. That's not the dealer you want to buy from.
Want us walking it with you?
The 30-minute pre-purchase call covers this checklist plus what we know about your specific brand and model.
Book a Pre-Purchase Call — $200
About this checklist: Not a substitute for a certified RV inspector. For RVs over $50K, recommended to hire an NRVIA-certified inspector ($400–$800) in addition to running this checklist yourself. Last updated: May 2026.
